Thursday 29 March 2012

Semiotics within subculture

Punks

Safety Pin
Parent hood, babies >> Rebellion, Anarchy

Dr Martins
Work boots >> Anarchy

Mohawk
Tribes >> Punk 

Black Cat
Pets >> Anarchy 

Black Flag
Countries >> Anarchy





Black cat 

The black cat, also called the "wild cat" or "sabot-cat", usually with an arched back and with claws and teeth bared, is closely associated with anarchism, especially with anarcho-syndicalism. It was designed by Ralph Chaplin, who was a prominent figure in the Industrial Workers of the World (IWW). As its stance suggests, the cat is meant to suggest wildcat strikes and radical unionism. The IWW (or the Wobblies) was an important industrial union, and was the first American labor union to recruit and organize women and people of color, and played a critical role in the fight for the eight-hour work day and in Free Speech fights all over the country in the early 20th century. Their most famous and influential years were from 1905 until they were largely suppressed by the Palmer Raids.
The origin of the black cat symbol is unclear, but according to one story it came from a IWW strike that was going badly. Several members had been beaten up and were put in a hospital. At that time a skinny, black cat walked into the striker's camp. The cat was fed by the striking workers and as the cat regained its health the strike took a turn for the better. Eventually the striking workers got some of their demands and they adopted the cat as their mascot.


The origins of Punk in the mid-1970s lay in the realities of disaffected working-class urban youth with little hope of employment, housing, and a meaningful future. The music, fashion and graphic design that emerged during this time was often concerned with political issues such as social injustice and economic disparity.

Usually straightforward, with clear messages, punk graphic design was often in black and white and often homemade using production techniques of cut-n-paste letterforms, photocopied and collaged images, hand-scrawled text. This DIY aesthetic was applied to posters, album covers and low-tech fanzines such as Sniffin Glue, which contained crudely designed pages, graffiti-like insertions and typographic errors, as well as torn-out letters from other sources.

Such ideas gained wider currency in the Punk music scene with record covers for companies like Factory Records and Stiff Records and the emergence of designers like Jamie Reid, who designed the controversial sleeve for the Punk band the Sex Pistols' single God Save the Queen of 1977, showing the defaced head of Queen Elizabeth II.
Graphic designers such as Reid, Malcolm Garrett, and Peter Saville, all closely associated with Punk music graphics, had all attended art school and, with others such as Neville Brody, revitalized graphic design through harnessing the vitality and iconoclasm of Punk to graphic skills and an awareness of Postmodern eclecticism. However, like many radical challenges to conventional lifestyles any threat was removed by the commercialization of the style, as had been the case with hippies and Psychedelia in the previous decade.

Mods

Mod (from modernist) is a subculture that originated in London, England, in the late 1950s and peaked in the early-to-mid 1960s.
Significant elements of the mod subculture include fashion (often tailor-made suits); music, including African American soul, Jamaican ska, British beat music, and R&B; and motor scooters. The original mod scene was also associated with amphetamine-fuelled all-night dancing at clubs.[4] From the mid-to-late 1960s and onwards, the mass media often used the term mod in a wider sense to describe anything that was believed to be popular, fashionable, or modern.
There was a mod revival in the United Kingdom in the late 1970s, which was followed by a mod revival in North America in the early 1980s, particularly in Southern California.

Scooters
Transport >> Mod status symbol

Target
Royal Air Force >> Mod Fashion
Suits
Employment, Business man >> Mod fashion


Rockers

Rockers, leather boys or ton-up boys are a biker subculture that originated in the United Kingdom during the 1950s. It was mainly centered around British cafe racer motorcycles and rock and roll music.
the more recent rocker // metal culture differs slightly but there are still common symbols used throughout. 


Skull 
Human head >> Rock Symbol

Lightening bolt
Electricity >> rock symbol

 Inverted Cross
 St peter >> Anti Christ





Hippies
The hippie subculture was originally a youth movement that arose in the United States during the mid-1960s and spread to other countries around the world. The etymology of the term 'hippie' is from hipster, and was initially used to describe beatniks who had moved into San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury district. Both the words "hip" and "hep" came from African American culture and denote "awareness".[1] The early hippies inherited the countercultural values of the Beat Generation, created their own communities, listened to psychedelic rock, embraced the sexual revolution, and some used drugs such as cannabis, LSD and magic mushrooms to explore altered states of consciousness.

VW Camper Van
Transport >> Hippie wagon

Flower >> Flower Power

Peace Sign
nuclear disarmament movement by Gerald Holtom in 1958. >> Hippy Symbol


Dove 
Bird >> Peace





Lecture 13 - Visual Communication


  • 'The rhetoric of the image'
  • Roland Barthes- Approaches and Theory
  • A French literary theorist Roland Barthes, his ideas of communication explored a diverse range of areas within the subject and influenced the development of schools of theory including structuralism, semiotics, social theory, anthropology and post-structuralism.
  • He found semiotics, the study of signs, useful.
  • His main influence was mainly found in the theoretical fields structuralism, semiotics, social theory, anthropology and post-structuralism. However it is also felt in every field was concerned with the representation of information and models of communication, including computers, photography, music, and literature.
Semiotics for beginners book-Daniel Chandler:
http://www.aber.ac.uk/media/Documents/S4B/sem06.html
  • The study of language is applied to images
  • Allowing you to use image as communication of words
  • a 'signifier' (signifiant) - the form which the sign takes; and
  • the 'signified' (signifié) - the concept it represents.
  • The relationship between the signifier and the signified is referred to as 'signification'.
  • Semiotics is the general study of signs or of whatever conveys meaning.
  • The most important contribution from semiotics for the Web designer, is the idea of sign, signifierand signified offered by Saussure.
  • Images are there to communicate themselves to communicate idea, the ideas can be applied to any images. 
A sign must have both a signifier and a signified. You cannot have a totally meaningless signifier or a completely formless signified (Saussure 1983, 101; Saussure 1974, 102-103). A sign is a recognizable combination of a signifier with a particular signified. The same signifier (the word 'open') could stand for a different signified (and thus be a different sign) if it were on a push-button inside a lift ('push to open door'). Similarly, many signifiers could stand for the concept 'open' (for instance, on top of a packing carton, a small outline of a box with an open flap for 'open this end') - again, with each unique pairing constituting a different sign. Nowadays, whilst the basic 'Saussurean' model is commonly adopted, it tends to be a more materialistic model than that of Saussure himself. The signifier is now commonly interpreted as the material (or physical) form of the sign - it is something which can be seen, heard, touched, smelt or tasted. For Saussure, both the signifier and the signified were purely 'psychological' (Saussure 1983, 12, 14-15, 66; Saussure 1974, 12, 15, 65-66). Both were form rather than substance:A linguistic sign is not a link between a thing and a name, but between a concept and a sound pattern. The sound pattern is not actually a sound; for a sound is something physical. A sound pattern is the hearer's psychological impression of a sound, as given to him by the evidence of his senses. This sound pattern may be called a 'material' element only in that it is the representation of our sensory impressions. The sound pattern may thus be distinguished from the other element associated with it in a linguistic sign. This other element is generally of a more abstract kind: the concept. (Saussure 1983, 66; Saussure 1974, 66) 
 

Barack Obama

Denote-
A man having his photo taken stood in front of a building
Connote
- Shows power The building is represents democracy, Also, representing politic and democracy.

This common domain of the signifieds of connotation is that of Ideology, which cannot but be single for a given society and history, no matter what signifiers of connotation it may use.
To the general ideology, that is, correspond signifiers of connotation which are specified according to the chosen substance.
These signifiers will be called connotators and the set of connotators a rhetoric, rhetoric thus appearing as the signifying aspect of ideology.
Roland Barthes  ‘The Rhetoric of the Image ‘ in  Image, Music Text 1977 p.51


 

Wednesday 28 March 2012

Semiotics

The use of semiotics in our lives

Now let’s see the kind of signs according to Peirce and then analyze some things in our lives on which we can see the use of semiotics.
The three kinds are:
  • Icons – a clear representation of the object itself, keeping its characteristics. There’s no distinction between the icon and the real object. Examples are: photos, drawings, imitations, onomatopoeias and others.
icons
  • Index – They indicate something. The index connected with its meaning (not arbitrary) but unlike the icon, it’s not the object itself. As examples, we can say that smoke indicates fire, smiles indicate happiness, fresh coffee smell in the morning indicates that someone preparing breakfast. Even medical symptoms and measuring instruments are indexes, because they indicate something.
indexes
  • Symbols – They have no resemblance to the real object, it’s  a result of a convention. A symbol can only make meaning if the person already knows that, so, this is a matter of culture and previous knowledge. We all know that a dove represents peace, but there’s no connection between the animal and peace, it’s just a convention. Letters and words are examples of symbols. The graph sign (words) has no direct link to the thing itself, but for each culture, they make meaning. For us, the mourning is represented by the color black, but this color changes for different countries and cultures.
symbols



The Punk Aesthetic, Style – An Appeal to Bricolage by Bricoleurs

Bricolage, when used in a discussion of philosophy and aesthetics can be used to refer to man's innate reaction to an object and, at times, the divide between the seemingly “natural order,” natural usage or placement, of an object or image and the actual usage of that entity as presented in front of him.
Bricolage can also extend to the usage of items beyond their immediate uses, the use of found objects to fulfill a role that other objects traditionally fill, or simply the juxtaposition of strange and foreign objects beside more mundane counterparts.
Aesthetically, when an item is removed from it's “natural” context or usage and adapted to another form, it presents a cognitive dissonance at the most basic level that can contribute to feelings of shock or unease. Those who might disturb the natural social order by placing an object out of place might be provocative bricoleurs – persons who use objects beyond the intentions of their natural contexts, or who are willing to juxtapose remote distant relatives in order to create new meaning.
Hebdige writes, “Together, object and meaning constitute a sign, and, within any one culture, such signs are assembled, repeatedly, into characteristic forms of discourse. However, when the bricoleur re-locates the significant object in a different position within that discourse, using the same overall repertoire of signs, or when that object is placed within a different total ensemble, a new discourse is constituted, a different message conveyed.” (pp. 104)

Examples of Punk Bricolage, Umberto Eco

The punk movement's most famous example of the use of bricolage would be the safety pin. Initially used in common context to hold together a diaper or other pieces of cloth safely without being stuck or jabbed – the safety pin emerged during the punk rock era to be an entirely different symbol. Used to pierce human lips and ears as well as to hold patches and flags onto torn “rags” - the safety pin became an icon for the fringe movement.
Punks were exemplary populist bricoleurs, removing “safe” objects from their normal context and remaking them in their own image in a form of“semiotic guerrilla warfare” as posited by semiotician Umberto Eco – a transference of symbols from mundane (such as a metal comb turned honed razor) and commercial (a mod punk rocker wearing a suit and tie to a rock show) into their own altered messages in the underground community, rejecting their conventional uses and symbolism.
Style as aesthetic expression was one of the most influential subtexts of the punk movement, as well as a continued movement in contemporary subculture.

Sunday 25 March 2012

Lecture 12 - Communication Theory

Lasswell's maxim: "Who says what to whom in what channel with what effect"
 
  • How do we get through to other people
  • There is allot of Different ways we can do this which is a problem
  •  Semiotics
  • The Phenomenological Tradition
  • Rhetorical
  • Socio-Cultural
  • Critical Theory
Two Models

Transmission (informational) model examines the process of sending and receiving messages or transferring information from one mind to another. This model’s limitations are that sending and receiving messages sometimes create gaps in communication because communication signs can be perceived differently by different people.
  Constitutive model (the process of production and reproduction of shared meaning)
  These models have several limitations, most of which are due to the fact that there can be can be gaps that occur in an understanding of the communication process either due to socio-cultural diversity and change or due to the limitations of being able to measure authentic communication between people.

Three Levels of Potential Communication Problems

Level 1  Technical  Accuracy
  Systems of encoding and decoding
  Compatibility of systems/need for specialist equipment or knowledge
Level 2  Semantic  Precision of language
  How much of the message can be lost without meaning being lost?
  What language to use?
Level 3  Effectiveness  Does the message affect behavior the way we want it to?
  What can be done if the required effect fails to happen?


Systems theory 
  • link other theories together, overlapping theories 
  • switch between theories 
  • without one system it will eventually effect another
  • some more important than others
  • big part of communication is the audience, became key with products 
  • definition of audience changes, re-establishing classifications of audiences constantly
  • Audiences- constantly changing
  • Broadcaster Audience through radio
  • Audience became to break down into categories of ages
  • Media Distribution- Newspaper, Radio and TVs
Semiotics - 3 Basic Theories
  • Semantics addresses what a sign stands for. Dictionaries are semantic reference books; they tell us what a sign means.
  • Syntactics is the relationships among signs. »Signs rarely stand alone. They are almost always part of a larger sign system referred to as codes. »Codes are organized rules that designate what different signs stand for.
  •   Pragmatics studies the practical use and effects of signs.

Bay Watch

  • cultures been effected by disease of communication 
  • power of signifiers in cultures and ages 
  • Semiosphere- signs so powerful they are no longer noticed 
  • Semiotics can apply to many different objects- link to social status 
  • Linguistic- signifies that countries cultures to others 
  • Discontinuous signs- different but works at some time 
  • Series of codes 
 
Phenomenological tradition 
  • process of knowing through direct experiences 
  • perceptions/ physical experiences 
  • the embodied mind 
  • gained much knowledge from other humans 
  • face recognition- coded deeply in what we understand 
  • process of interpretation is central 
3 schools of phenomenology- classical, perception, hermeneutic 
 
Hermeneutics- study and interpretations in the margins 
  • rhetoric 
  • synecdoche, hyperbole, irony 
  • constructed to persuade 
  • often used for propaganda 
  • make that audience listen 
Repetition
  • drills into brain 
  • pictures without context are meaningless, they need to be anchored 
  • without text message is lost or confused 
  • how world operates 
Metaphor 
  • grasp new concepts and remember things by creating associations 
Socio-psychological tradition 
  • body language, relationship and its understandings 
  • information seeking behaviour 
  • social and cognitive psychology 
  • design for multi-language areas- use of visual language 
  • understandings through visuals- may need explaining 
  • expression, interaction and influence 
  • conveyed in layers 
  • useful for deep analysis of the moment of communication 
  • way into thinking about crits
Critical communication theory 
  • human history has a purpose that can be changed and shaped 
  • structures for understanding 
  • contexts used in different ways- shifts

Thursday 22 March 2012

STAMP IT // RECYCLING RESEARCH

•Up to 60% of the rubbish that ends up in the dustbin could be recycled.
•The unreleased energy contained in the average dustbin each year could power a television for 5,000 hours.
•The largest lake in the Britain could be filled with rubbish from the UK in 8 months.
•On average, 16% of the money you spend on a product pays for the packaging, which ultimately ends up as rubbish.
•As much as 50% of waste in the average dustbin could be composted.
•Up to 80% of a vehicle can be recycled.
•9 out of 10 people would recycle more if it were made easier.
•1 recycled tin can would save enough energy to power a television for 3 hours.
•1 recycled glass bottle would save enough energy to power a computer for 25 minutes.
•1 recycled plastic bottle would save enough energy to power a 60-watt light bulb for 3 hours.
•70% less energy is required to recycle paper compared with making it from raw materials.

Tuesday 20 March 2012

Publication Research // Subcultures

So far I am pretty stuck with an idea for my publication, I am quite interested in the design work produced from within different subcultures. Such as:
  • Punks
  • Skaters
  • Mods
  • Rockers
  • Hip Hop
  • Skin heads
  • Surfers
I think I am going to look at how design is influenced within different subcultures. How fashion and beliefs are transferred into pieces of design. I recently read something on Semiotics which was quite interesting explained how objects meanings are changed by different subcultures. This is quite interesting how people perceive objects to be ascosiated withe something different to its actual meaning or use.  For instance the safety pin which might originally of been associated with parent hood, nappies and babies, which indicated rebellion and anarchy with the punk era.


Design & Subculture 


Culture is involves large groups of people who share languages, beliefs, or values. Subcultures are smaller groups within cultures. Those subcultures are only connected through the same values. You can think for example of the subculture of surfing. Surfers all share similar interests but they may be located in many different places, in many different cultures around the world. Normally we think of subcultures as opposed to mainstream culture and it is true that people can be part of more than one subculture.
In his book Subculture: The Meaning of Style, Dick Hebdige discusses the groups of individuals in London who went against the style of the establishment – teddy boys, mods, rockers, skinheads and punks. He suggests that the tension between the power and less powerful groups are represented on the surface expression. There are certain aspects of clothing and decoration that represented these groups such as safety pins, motorcycles and boots.



Hebdige emphasizes the sign of refusal as an important part of divergent groups. The sign of refusal is apparent in graffiti for example. Refusal is against the “hegemony” a term that means the powers that be and their system of rules. An important part of hegemony is the framing of ideas within a particular context. For example: The political power may acknowledge a punk group but do so through police wanted ads, or negative news stories. While a subculture wants to appear separate with enough negative framing a negative stereotype will form.
Graffiti artist Banksy
The problem for designers is that different groups have different definitions for the same signs. The meaning of signs is manipulated through style. Hebdige writes, “our task becomes to discern the hidden messages inscribed in code on the glossy surfaces of style, to trace them as ‘maps of meaning’ which obscurely re-present the very contradictions they are designed to resolve or conceal.”

See footage of the London punk scene in 1979: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IABnsIDer-0&feature=fvsr


The idea of cultural sign reading is called “semiotics.” This theory was started by French theorist Roland Barthes. In the 1960’s Barthes created a book called Empire of Signs followed by The Fashion System in which he decoded clothing. Barthes suggested that all meaning in fashion is within closed systems of meaning. You understand the codes of a fashion group by being part of the group.



In the The Official Preppy Handbook writer Lisa Birnbach uses semiotics to de-code the preppy subculture. She takes a typical family den and recognizes the value system that is represented. She does the same thing with a dorm room. She then summarizes her findings by suggesting 10 underlying fashion principles of prep. Her ability to sign read and summarize makes the book more than comical and raises the question of how subcultures and stereotypes overlap.



Many companies try to reach subcultures through niche marketing using signs of the subculture. However, because people in a subculture are not unified beyond shared interest or belief, there is lack of understanding of individual differences. Stereotypes are broken when you meet particular individuals who belong to many subcultures such as punks who play golf or preps with motorcycles. As designers, we can consider the cross-cultural aspects as more interesting, especially with the emphasis on identity in post-modernism. Niche categories are only partial understanding of lived experience.

In his essay “The Bachelor Pad as Cultural Icon”(http://jdh.oxfordjournals.org/cgi/reprint/18/1/99.pdf) Bill Osgerby discusses the representation of mid-century private interiors. During the 50’s and 60’s the American magazine Playboy spotlighted bachelor pads. Esquire was another magazine that emphasized the lifestyle of leisure. Sleekness, streamlining and luxury electronics like clock radios, built in cigarette lights and pedal lighting created the aesthetic.


There were examples of control panels, allowing the man to relax and simply supervise the house. These ideas go with mid-century modern trends in general but even today the bachelor pad emphasizes ease of maintenance and technology. Osgerby suggests that Playboy set the high standard in the end for the most innovative mid century spaces, in combination with the establishment of the club design which resembled a bachelor pad. He concludes by stating that the bachelor pad can be understood as a signifier of America’s petit-bourgeois, making class into a sub a subcultural style.


The essay analyzes the bachelor but in contemporary culture we also use the word pimp. The word pimp first appeared in English in 1607 in a Thomas Middleton book entitled Your Five Gallants. It is believed to have stemmed from the French infinitive pimper meaning to dress up elegantly. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the term was commonly used to refer to informers. The term can now also be applied to a person who is considered a ladies' man.

Comparing Punks, Pimps & Preps
How is it a legitimate subculture, with real people? how is it a style?
1. Subculture personality traits
2. Visual design style characteristics
3. Media persona examples
4. Brands or products that connect to the subculture/style

Punks
1. Subculture characteristics and personalities
rebellious, expressive, challenge status quo, misunderstood, loud, present, independence
2. Visual design style characteristics

safety pin, tattoos, boots, black, worn out clothing, British flag
3. Media persona examples
Sex Pistols, The Clash, Ramones
4. Brands that connect to the subculture/style

Doc Martens, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier


Preps
1. Subculture characteristics and personalities
Conformity, conservative, traditional, polite, social
2. Visual design style characteristics

plaid, pastels, leisure-sports wear, pearls, family heirlooms
3. Media persona examples
The Kennedys, Gossip Girl, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Martha Stewart
4. Brands that connect to the subculture/style

Brooks Brothers, J Crew, Ralph Lauren



Pimps
1. Subculture characteristics and personalities
Bachelors, partiers, criminals, ladies man, suave, metro

2. Visual design style characteristics

expressive, flamboyant, street wear, gentleman’s tux
3. Media persona examples
Blaxploitation films, Flava Flav, Snoop Dog, Hugh Hefner, P Diddy
4. Brands that connect to the subculture/style

Axe cologne, Jameson Scotch, Astin Martin

Another good example of this semiotic process is the safety-pin as used by punks in the Seventies.  Punk subculture, especially in England, was a group of young people who opposed political, social and aesthetic values of mainstream culture.  Punks excorporated the safety-pin, for whatever reasons, from the dominant culture.  Instead of signifying the dominant culture’s connotations like babies, diapers, parenthood, safety pins now, through the excorporation by the subculture and within the subculture, signified, anarchy, opposition, punk.  This is a form of semiotic guerilla warfare and a very different set of connotations.  Then designers incorporate and mainstream the safety pin into their designs and safety pins now become a fashion statement available to anyone who has the time and money to go  purchase a shirt or skirt with safety pins.